Breakfast was buffet-style in a small
restaurant filled mostly by our group and another about to make the
trek. Cold as we were, our first thought was to rush for the coffee and
tea. The coffee was a dud; so strong it dyed your hands if it spilled on
you, and was not made better by the curdled milk. Other than that, the
food was fantastic. We enjoyed scrambled eggs, mini-pancakes and the
delicious buns we had come to love so much.
With breakfast over, we boarded the bus again
to head to Ollantaytambo’s main square. Alfredo, one of our Inca Trail
guides, gave us a small tour of the town, pointing out the differences
between Incan and Spanish architecture, noting particularly the
wide-base wall design that helped protect against earthquakes. We
finished our tour with some free time in the main square to pick up any
last minute purchases (lip balm, wool gloves, decent coffee etc).
Final purchases made, we were on the bus
again to finish our ride to checkpoint ‘km 82’, the beginning of the
Inca Trail. As a pleasant surprise; the weather had changed from
freezing cold to very hot. The group, along with many others, waited
there to take a group photo, go to the bathroom, and allow the porters
to pack their bags.
With everything sorted out, we headed out to
the check-in for the trail, where there was (as usual) some confusion
about documents but our trail guides quickly had it under control. In
high spirits, the group crossed the bridge that marked the beginning of
the trail. We had finally begun.
Since IntiSun trek’s usual group size was a
maximum of 8 people, our group was divided into three smaller
sections for the trek.
“Los Macho Piccu Muchachos” consisted of: Jean Marc, DCS, Benjamin, Jordon, Calvin, Christopher, Martin, and their guide, Carlos.
“Los Burros Loccos” included: David Ross, Andrew, James, Alex, Connor, Ryan, Jake, and their guide, Alfredo.
“Las Hermanas Martellas” (The Hammer
Sisters) contained all the girls: Tracey, Lindy, Anna, Alison, Heather,
Anya and Jackie, along wither their guide, Jesus.
There was a good three or four hours of
hiking to be done before lunch and the groups headed out with relish,
happy to be out on the trail at long last. They found it to be quite
flat (especially when compared with the next day) and there were breaks
to learn more about the Incan Empire, local flora and the trail itself.
One point of interest was that there are actually two different Inca
Trails. One runs over the mountains and was reserved for priests and
higher classes, while another winds through the valleys and was used by
the common people of the empire.
We stopped shortly to view our first real
Incan ruins, Patallacta. Actually being lower (~7400 ft) than our
starting elevation, we viewed the terraced village from a cliff above.
It consisted of a half a dozen stone houses framed by about 15 terraces
with a ‘snakey’ curving border at the base and a two-chamber storehouse
along one edge.We learned that many Incan villages were shaped in ways
to invoke different animals (most commonly: the snake, puma, and
condor). It is therefore no coincidence that I use the term ‘snakey’ to
describe the borders of Patallacta; that is exactly what the builders
were going for when they constructed this village.
We stopped for lunch at Tarayoc (exact
spelling is unsure as Quechan is a spoken language and therefore
spelling may vary), it was a pleasant surprise and a good idea of what
was to come. We spotted one of our porters who pointed us across a
bridge to a large dining tent. Walking to the tent we passed many other
trekking companies who had set up close by. Inside our tent was a large
central table fashioned out of smaller plastic tables covered by
colourful Peruvian tablecloths and surrounded by plastic stools. Table
settings were laid out with tubs of water just outside the tent to wash
our hands and faces.
Lunch itself consisted of: asparagus soup,
rice, fried trout, steamed cauliflower, carrots, and beans. There were
also slices of avocado sprinkled with parmesan cheese and sweet, warm
lemonade to drink. The food was much more than we expected and helped
everyone to recover from the morning and prepare for their afternoon.
With our first meal over, sitting comfortably
in our stomachs, we headed out for another four hours of hiking before
we would get to our camp for that night. The trail began climbing much
more steeply than it had in the morning. This did not stop our groups
and it certainly didn’t stop the porters, who actually ran past us with
smiles on their faces. One of our break stops was located in a field
with grazing bulls. It was quite an experience to sit on a bench right
beside the horns of a three hundred pound animal.
Los Burros Locos and the Macho Picchu
Muchachos met up at a checkpoint that weighed the porter’s packs and
required all trekkers to sign in. We had some fun weighing our own
daypacks on the porter’s scale; with David Ross and James carrying the
heaviest bags; 7.9 kilograms each.
Those two groups ended up finishing the hike
together, a very steep uphill climb during which they were passed by two
porters bringing up goods to sell at the camps. Carlos and Alfredo met
them on the hill, as they had waited for the girls to arrive at the
checkpoint. Climbing down our last hill to arrive at Yuncachimpa where
we were greeted to camp by our clapping porters who cheered us all the
way in. Yuncachimpa sits at an elevation of 10,800 ft meaning we had
climbed almost 2,000 vertical feet and hiked around 12 horizontal
kilometres on this first day (no small challenge), and they called this
the easy day! Once we had arrived there was the usual treatment of warm
water for hands, faces and feet, followed by an eager porter carrying
paper towel with which to dry ourselves.
Las Hermanas Martellas arrived in the dark and the whole camp
erupted in cheers and hugs. The dining tent was then set up for tea, a
very civilized affair. There was popcorn, crackers and of course, tea.
Then, at 7:00 p.m., there was dinner that consisted of: cream of corn
soup, noodles with vegetables, chicken legs that they called “Condor
Legs”, fried potatoes stuffed with cheese, spanikopita pastry and more
tea. With all this in our bellies we crawled into our sleeping bags,
exhausted, to give our muscles a break so they would be ready for the
challenging day ahead.
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